Day 5 – Kitagata Hot Springs & Savannah Drive in Uganda
Misty mountain mornings, cultural surprises, and a village built on healing water
Table of Contents
We left Bwindi early, driving north through swirling mountain mist and breathtaking landscapes that changed with every hour. From the cool, forested hills of gorilla country, we journeyed through lush banana groves, rolling tea plantations, and patchworks of coffee fields and subsistence farms. We passed red-earth brick kilns, children waving from village paths, and women carrying water or harvests along the roadside—watching Uganda unfold in shades of green, gold, and everyday life.
The destination: Queen Elizabeth National Park, but the journey itself was an adventure.
A Museum That Surprised Me
Our first stop was the Great Lakes Museum, just outside the park boundaries. I’ll be honest—I didn’t expect much. Museums aren’t usually at the top of my list when I travel (especially when I’m usually with my kids!), but this one was different.
The man at the front desk took it upon himself to guide me personally, and suddenly every artefact began to speak. He led me through displays celebrating regional diversity—from Ankole and Kigezi artefacts to items representing DR Congo and the Masai. I learned about tribal customs, traditional tools, musical instruments, and ceremonial dress—each storytelling piece resonating with layers of identity and history. I felt more than informed; I felt connected. In that moment, it wasn’t just a museum visit—it was a living, breathing conversation across cultures, generations, and landscapes.
The Tree of Life, carved from a single towering trunk, stood tall outside the museum—impossible to miss, both in size and meaning. Its surface was alive with figures: women pounding grain, elders in council, children at play, cattle herders, drummers. Every detail was intentional. Each carving told a story—of daily life, of ritual, of myth, of community. It wasn’t just a sculpture; it was a visual archive of Uganda’s soul. The guide explained how it symbolised unity across the Great Lakes region, with its branches stretching across borders and its roots grounded in shared traditions. Like the baobab, it represented strength, sustenance, and connection—reminding us that culture isn’t frozen in time, it grows and adapts, always rooted, always alive.
In the technology display cabinet, I laughed out loud. Vinyl record players, cassette boom boxes, Nokia bricks… My teenage years on display! It was comforting, a strange kind of global connection—proof that even here, in the heart of Africa, our stories overlap more than we realise.
Outside, the grounds held an unexpected mix: accommodation chalets, a squeaky pirate ship ride, a high ropes course, and even bikes for hire. Uganda always keeps you on your toes.
Kitagata Hot Springs and Healing Waters
Further down the road, we pulled into a dusty village where people had gathered to bathe in the Kitagata Hot Springs.
I’d brought my swimsuit but felt a little out of place—crowds were already in the steaming pools, shoulder to shoulder. The energy was different. Not touristy. Real. Intimate. I kept my distance and dipped my foot in instead.
The water was boiling—literally bubbling from underground—yet just a metre away, whole families were soaking happily, from toddlers to elders.
On the other side of the road, I was told a new spa facility is being built, aimed at tourists. I couldn’t help but wonder what that would mean for the local community who have come here for generations to heal, relax, and reconnect.
Alex stayed close, respectfully guiding me through this very human space. One elderly woman saw my pale legs and warned, half-jokingly, “You’ll burn!” I smiled. I knew what she meant.
Arriving in the Savannah
Eventually, we made it to the Queen Elizabeth National Park. As we drove in, baboons lined the road and elephants wandered nearby. It was like something out of a dream—wild, open, and beautifully uncontained.
We stopped at the gate to arrange our permits for the next day and continued on to Baboon Safari Resort, perched above the savannah plains. The view from the lodge was unreal—vast golden grasses stretching to the horizon, dotted with acacia trees and dust trails.
Here, the world felt wide open. The perfect place to see my African sunrise.
🌍 Travel Tip of the Day: Expect the Unexpected
- The Great Lakes Museum is a hidden gem—don’t skip it.
- The Kitagata Hot Springs are beloved by locals and said to have healing powers—bring swimwear, but also bring respect.
- Long drives in Uganda are never dull. Keep your eyes (and heart) open for surprises.
💛 Personal Reflection:
Today was a gentle shift—from misty mountains to wide-open plains.
The hot springs reminded me that wellness isn’t a luxury. It’s something everyone deserves. And sometimes healing doesn’t look like silence and candles—it looks like families connecting together in bubbling water beneath the open sky.
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