Day 7 – Exploring Fort Portal Toro Kingdom and Amabere Caves

A day of kings, clans, and a waterfall hidden by the caves of western Uganda

Who couldn’t love waking up to views like these?

Today felt like stepping sideways in time.

We left Queen Elizabeth behind and travelled deeper into Uganda’s western region towards Kibale, where landscapes shift from wide-open savannah to rolling green hills and crater lakes, each with its own legend.

A Royal Detour: Fort Portal Tooro Kingdom

On our way to Fort Portal, we made a surprise stop at the Tooro Kingdom Palace, perched high on Karuzika Hill overlooking the city. It is home to King Oyo Nyimba Kabamba Iguru Rukidi IV, one of the world’s youngest monarchs, who ascended to the throne at just three years old and is now 31.

The palace sits in regal isolation, with 360-degree panoramic views across the surrounding countryside—a reminder of the cultural significance and enduring traditions of the Toro people. We arrived unannounced, but the guard kindly allowed us a quick tour. The King had apparently “popped to the gym,” so with a bit of luck and timing, we had a brief but extraordinary look inside the gates flanked by red lion statues.

What stood out most was the bright red concrete ‘carpet’ that encircles the entire palace, symbolising both royal prestige and accessibility. I was told that if I, as a commoner, stepped on it I’d become infertile. No wonder the King has yet to find a wife.

Amabere Ga Nyinamwiru: The Breasts of Nyinamwiru

Before lunch, we visited a place that might sound unusual at first: Amabere Caves (Amabere Ga Nyinamwiru), which literally translates as “The Breasts of Nyinamwiru.”

Legend has it that Nyinamwiru, the beautiful daughter of King Bukuku, refused to marry the man her father had chosen for her. In a rage, the king cut off her breasts and banished her to the caves. There, she lived in hiding—but she gave birth to a son, Ndahura, who would eventually grow up to become one of the first kings of the Bachwezi dynasty.

You walk through lush jungle to reach it, then duck beneath vines and dripping moss into a world that feels mythical. Milky white water drips from the stalactites, coating the rocks below—giving the appearance of constant “milk” flowing from stone breasts. Local people still believe the cave is sacred. Some say it’s cursed. Others say it’s blessed. Either way, it’s worth a visit.

The Waterfall

Just past the cave, we continued walking down a slope—and suddenly, the sound of rushing water filled the air.

We’d reached a hidden waterfall, gushing powerfully over rocks and jungle. The spray soaked my face. The roar of it filled my chest. It was wild and raw and exhilarating.

We ran behind the overflowing water, soaked and laughing. It wasn’t a tourist attraction—it was an initiation. A rite of passage. A reminder that sometimes, magic lives in an alternative perspective.

🌍 Travel Tip of the Day: Explore the Layers

• Don’t skip the cultural stops—Uganda’s stories are as powerful as its wildlife.
• Bring walking shoes or hire gum boots and be ready to get very wet at Amabere Ga Nyinamwiru.
• Ask your guide to share the local legends—they give depth to every visit.

💛 Personal Reflection

Today reminded me that Uganda is more than stunning landscapes and wildlife. It’s a place where stories shape the land. Where caves carry the cries of lost queens, and waterfalls speak louder than words.

I went looking for adventure, and I found ancestry.

Tomorrow: chimp trekking in Kibale Forest—a whole new kind of wild.